About My Fucking Machine The best DIY fucking machine, Build it yourself and see how good it is.

Background

I am developing what i consider to be the ultimate fucking machine. It can be a DIY fucking machine. Almost anyone can build it. I have been working on it for a few years now. I am married to a man who is quite sexual but who has serious physical limitations. He wishes he could fuck for hours as in the “old days”. We are in our late fifties and still enjoy a long hard fuck but …

Here is a picture of my latest creation, the timing belt DIY fucking machine.

Tiiming belt DIY fucking machine

DIY fucking machine timing belt version, the latest

DIY fucking machine timing belt version, the latest

Even if you are not interested in building a DIY fucking machine you may be inspired to find someone to build one for you.

Be sure to check out the post about the latest improvement. The Shagmatic now follows the beat of music.  It will sync (synchronize) to the musical beat and can follow any standard audio input.

I looked at the various machines online and was not impressed. I am an engineer with a fair amount or experience with electronic and mechanical design. I wanted to build a machine that took advantage of the wonders of modern electronics and machine control systems.

What I have built so far amazes me.I had the very best sex of my life just a few days ago and I have had over 35 years of experience. To me sex is like music in that the best sex incorporates elements of both predictability and surprise. Masturbation is useful and necessary in my opinion but there is nothing that beats a partner.

Details

My machine has a simple (there are actually a few options and many more are possible) HID (human interface device) which a friend referred to as a joystick. Instead of repeating motion as do most fucking machines, the machine is controlled by this little joystick.There are some machines that allow you to string together “motion macros” into sessions and if you are good at this sort of thing you might be able to produce a realistic fucking with their machines. Most machines let you control the speed and penetration (penetration changes usually require that the machine be stopped and a hardware change made) and can produce exciting effects by eventually cranking the speed up to high rates.

My machine works completely differently. The person who holds the joystick is in complete control. Anything from slow gentle to violent and any combination is possible. The machine is capable of what I call “musical” precision. My husband is a master machine controller. He can use the simple joystick to provide two or three simultaneous rhythms with variations.

What is it really like to experience this Machine?

You really have to get fucked buy this machine to have any idea what I am talking about.Not to be boring but I need to repeat that I have had the absolute best sex ever while being fucked by my husband using this machine.Tomorrow is his turn and I hope to do as much to him as he has done to me.I am working on some advanced features for this machine that I can not discuss in detail but the prospects are amazing.

This is not vaporware, I have working prototypes and only need to refine them to the point of commercial feasibility.Being an old guy I am new to programmable electronics so I am slowly learning all of this as it is required for the device that I plan to build. The most important advanced feature is the ability to record performances in a data format that can be easily included on conventional media. For the less technically aware, what I mean is that it will be possible to record a fucking session and to link it to video or music without special hardware or software. The machine can follow the fucking on a video or can follow a musical performance without any equipment other than the fucking machine and a DVD player.

My hubby is such a great fucking machine controller that I hope to get him to record fucking sessions that can give others the joy that I experienced last week.I am quite a good engineer but I am not very good at marketing.I am hoping to find others to join me in this venture who have the skills that I lack and who can help to develop this remarkable product.

I am also interested in finding beta testers who can give the machine a workout to see if they can break it or find other ways to improve it. Ideally these would be young beautiful studs who can test the machine while I carefully observe (in a strictly scientific manner, of course) although I would probably be willing to settle for other horny old perverted guys like myself. You will be amazed if you build this DIY fucking machine.

If you made it this far, you are obviously as perverted as I am. I am totally serious about this. I knew that I had a good thing going, at one point. I have been working on this for years but the experience of last week has convinced me that I need to share this with others.There is, of course the possibility that this device might be appreciated by straight couples and or individuals but being a guy who is interested only in guys, this is all foreign to me.

Further reading

Anyone wanting to build a DIY fucking machine is encouraged to explore this site for the latest updates and discussion. Check out the resources page for details, pictures and videos. http://shagmatic.com/resources/

66 Responses to About My Fucking Machine The best DIY fucking machine, Build it yourself and see how good it is.

  1. eric says:

    Hi,
    very interresting device, I have done one fucking machine with a screw actuator and some electronics, I can control speed and penetration (you could see some videos with it on my amateur page Xtube “electraglide”) but yours is better, the joystick control is a great idea…
    What kind of actuator and feedback control do you use, do you have more photos of your machine ?

  2. Andrew Bannon says:

    Love the design. I have been collecting various components (industrial servos and stepper motors, T slot, bearings, etc.) for a pending build. Your design is sweet! If you are getting closer to a set of plans – or even design notes you want to turn into plans – drop me a line.

    Great work!

  3. Dildofunboy says:

    Damn,

    I would totally get into taking a ride on your machine. Video tape it and publish it on your site..

    I’m in…

    Where ru located? Im in Southern California

  4. slimeslinger says:

    you all are light years ahead of me. My first 3 builds were manual my first was a stole with a hole in the bottom a pivot point and 3 rods. no2 was a cardio exercise machine no3 was a exercise bike. my first motorized machine consist of a router table the bottom part of crutches strapped to the front legs for up & down adjustment I strapped a mixer to the bottom welled a flat peace of steal to the beater post I used a drawer slider to direct the back and forth motion my hi teck ha ha controller was a dimmer switch

  5. Burnabysub says:

    Love your slider design. I have a machine I built using a stepper motor and a drawer slide driven by a arm .I have never been happy with the drawer slide or the arm so my Christmas project is to redo it. I had originally looked at using timing belts as a drive but had trouble sourcing cheap timing pulleys with a 14mm bore (seems to be an unusual size). But I have a source now and with your design so I will be all set.
    I went with a different control mechanism, pots for stroke depth, start depth, forward and reverse speeds. It looks like you tried a similar method before settling on the joystick. How would you compare the two methods?
    A final question…what is the torque rating for your motor? As I understand it servo motors have more real torque available than stepper motors, my first build I went with 650oz/in nema34 but I’d love to downsize the motor if I could. It makes the machine pretty heavy.

  6. shagmatic says:

    this is the motor i used. servos definitely have more available torque especially when going through the range that would be the harmonic instability of a stepper. acceleration ramping is not necessary. gecko will be selling a stepper controller that will drive a stpper like a servo so it might be possible to use cheaper steppers soon.

    http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/nema23-m-dc-servo-motor/skewed-rotor-design-nema23-dual-shaft

    i made all sorts of controllers almost all of them arduino based and driving the motor with step and direction signals. the current design can have slide or rotary pots added for various types of control. it can follow exact or relative position from a dc voltage so it can be driven by pots or any dc control signal. pretty easy to adapt the code to emulate other repetitive motion systems.

    i really like the joystick method because it is like an amplifier for a human input. although the code can read a computer joystick (if i add the library for it) it actually uses a quadrature encoder. this gives really precise control. i have a bunchof early optical mice that put out quadrature signals and these can be used as well but are not as good as the real mechanical/optical encoder.

    • Nige says:

      hi
      check out http://misfittech.net/ for a low cost servo control, the control software is open source.
      He is also working on a 10A version.
      these is a group on google https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/mechaduino

      • Davey Hi says:

        Those are stepper motors with feedback, not what one usually means by servo motor.

        • shagmatic says:

          I have several versions with steppers and with servos. I have one stepper with an encoder on it but never made use of it. So, what you are seeing is a servo if it has an encoder on the back and a stepper if it doesn’t. Both work well but you need to consider the requirements of each type of motor. Steppers work well at slow speeds and even at moderate and fast speeds with good drivers but servos can accelerate faster and achieve higher eventual speed, much faster. They are, however really bad at very low speeds so you need to consider the gearing ratios.

          I did measure strokes per minute but forget the results. Of course it depends on the length of stroke. The motor accelerates and decelerates at the end of each stroke. Depending on the motor used, this acceleration can be a considerable part of the total stroke time so there is yet another variable. Smaller diameter motors accelerate faster so the NEMA 24 is probably the best compromise between power and acceleration but my favorite for the moment is the huge double stack NEMA 34 on my unstoppable machine.

          When the stroke is very small (under a half inch) the machine operates in vibration mode and the acceleration is increased greatly as well as the max speed. At one half inch stroke most machines will do 1500 (single direction) strokes in a minute, probably more. At a 4 inch stroke i would guess it is about 120 to 150 ??? Of course it depends on the type of motor and other factors. Whatever the actual speed is, it is more than adequate (from experience) and would be dangerous (especially the unstoppable machine) if it went faster. I can take some measurements on the unstoppable machine some day soon. Easiest way might be to video it and analyze the video frame by frame.

  7. Eric says:

    I just got this motor in the mail and thought it was four wires, not 3, so I guess I won’t be using the Gecko G203V. I’m having trouble finding out anything about 3 wire steppers online. Can you give me a hint as to how to drive this thing?

  8. JR says:

    I am not a straight couple but I am female.Due to a stupid chronic illness starting at age 26 (I’m 35 now) that has left me unable to provide for myself and coherent approx 2 out of 7 days I have found that the hot guys I used to date along with the desperate skeezy ones I would never date – no matter that I still look 25 – won’t touch me with a ten foot pole. It’s been over 2 years since I have had sex and if I had the money I’d buy a fucking machine myself.. Anyway, yours intrigues me. I think that if you are conducting tests on these machines it would be wise to get opinions of the oppisite sex as well. Is there even an attachment that would fit it that could be used on a female (one who is not interested in anal pen.)? Is the device easily controllable by a single person? You could retire on this machine if you can make it as inclusive as possible…. Was that convincing enough to let me test yr machine? Lol. Don’t worry I can always sign a contract promising to send you videos of my experiences (with face covered)One thing I can’t do however… Is build it.

    • shagmatic says:

      You can attach anything you want to the fucking machine. It is not just for anal use, it works just as well for other holes. Unfortunately i can not build machines for others for a variety of reasons. It can be controlled by anyone who has use of at least a couple of fingers on one hand. The design allows for expansion in any number of creative ways and since the firmware is no open source this can be done without having to re-invent any wheels.

  9. MechSex says:

    Hi, is this project still alive ?
    It is a very nice design and i like to start building it 😉
    Is there a way to communicate with other builders, a forum, something like that ?

    • shagmatic says:

      The project is still alive. The best way to communicate with other users is to post on this blog and to subscribe so you are notified about postings. I should create a forum to make this easier but there are currently not a lot of builders. If anyone wants to volunteer to set up the forum, that would be appreciated. I have set up a couple of forums for testing and it is not very difficult but I just don’t have time to do it for a while.

  10. rom says:

    I am also interrested to build one, I don’t know when because I have other mechanical projects to finish first.

    I was thinking to use this motor: http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/dual-shaft-cnc-stepper-motor-nema-24-100mm-4nm566-ozin-24hs393008d-p-388.html or the 3NM version which should be enough.

    But getting the urethane wheel is very difficult in Europe, and if I remember well even in US with a 8mm shaft.
    I had the idea to make one using liquid urethane and a 3d printed mold, here is an example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqePcD0VAmc
    It could be the same shape as the idler rollers to provide more grip.

    I will check how to set up a forum (phpBB), I have never did it but have installed a few websites with wordpress/joomla, it should not be a lot more complicated.

    Have you seen the new Teensy 3.5 and 3.6 ? They are a lot faster (120/180MHz) than the older so there is no more need to overclock it.

    • shagmatic says:

      I have never seen Nema 24 motors for sale so I never tried one. This could be the ideal motor because it could accelerate faster than the nema 34s but not have the tiny 6.35 mm shaft of the nema 23 motors. The holding torque of this motor seems to be in the right range. I just ordered two of these to try. I am really busy for a month or so but will test one as soon as i have time.

      The multipart mold video is fascinating. I will certainly try it if i need to add a flexible part to something i need to print. Not sure how well it would work for making a drive wheel. The wheel has to have very little runout and needs to have just the right firmness of the rubber. I tried a lot of different drive wheels before I got one that worked as well as the one i recommend in the parts list. If a castable urethane of the right durometer can be found, it should be possible to cast it on a suitable hub. I don’t think a printed hub could be strong enough. Might make sense to cast the urethane on an idler U or V shaped wheel and make or find a suitable hub for it. I would be interested in knowing of a source for castable urethane and other possibly useful rubber compounds.

      I have two each of the new teensies. I bought them during the kickstart. I have not used them for anything yet. They are a bit larger than the 3.2 but I believe they have the same pin locations for the ones they share with the 3.2 so substituting one would be very easy. I plan to try this when i have time. I don’t think that the higher speed and other capabilities are necessary for a basic machine but it does open the possibility of adding the record to audio feature without using a second microcontroller. The other features like the SD card slot, could be useful for recording and playback, user configuration etc.

  11. Redington says:

    Hello,

    Do you know if someone manage to finish this project in Europe. I want to start working on it, but I’m not sure I can find all the parts. Maybe I can get advice from another builder.
    Is this motor http://eu.stepperonline.com/high-torquespeed-nema-34-cnc-stepper-motor-13nm1841ozin-34hs595004s-p-57.html good enough or is too much torque and it will not be enough speed?
    How can I order the board from you?
    Thank you

    • shagmatic says:

      There was a successful build or two in Europe. This design can be built with a wide range of motors and other components. I think that the motor you link is a bit too big. It is a double stack nema 34 which would have a lot of inertial mass. It would be slow to accelerate. It would be good if you wanted a lot of power but did not want rapid acceleration. Acceleration may not seem like something important but it is necessary for “detail”.

      I just bought a couple of he largest nema 24 motors that Steppersonline sells and have been experimenting with them. They do not seem to be any worse than the nema 34 motors i was using before. The yhave an 8 mm shaft which is strong enough to be used without an outbound bearing (i think but time will tell) I have also found that in spite of the suggestion to the contrary from the Gecko help pages that cheap switching power supplies seem to work just fine. I have a 24 volt inline (like a notebook supply) on order that i will be testing with but initial testing with my variable voltage and current bench supply suggests that it will work fine.

      I am also going to test with vee rail guides and a carriage to make a drive belt machine to eliminate slipping without complicating the design.

      So the bottom line is that there are all sorts of possibilities. You can depart far from the design shown in the builder’s manual and a lot is not critical. Some things are important so ask me or someone else with experience with this sort of stuff before buying a lot of expensive parts.

      You can buy the board from me or do it yourself with a Teensy Arduino and some sort of breakout board to make it easy to make the necessary connections. The open source firmware should tell you in the setup section what pins do the various functions. Much easier to buy the assembled board 🙂

  12. Redington says:

    Awesome job.

    I really need more power than speed, so I think I will stick with this engine. Anyway I think I will build something that allow me to switch the engine, and buy another one in the future if it will be not appropriate.
    I am very excited to start build this, so for the last week I study over the internet as much as I could but I don’t have any previous experience in this matters, so it is very hard.
    For now please tell me if this combination will work:
    1. kit 13Nm Nema 34 Stepper Motor & Driver CNC Mill Router Lathe Robot (instead of Gecko drive)
    http://eu.stepperonline.com/1-axis-cnc-kit-13nm-nema-34-stepper-motor-driver-cnc-mill-router-lathe-robot-p-410.html
    2. Switching Power Supply 350W 60V 5.9A (instead of toroidal+filter+Bridge) http://eu.stepperonline.com/switching-power-supply-350w-60v-59a-for-cnc-router-kits-115v230v-s35060-p-178.html
    This will cost me 170 euro
    OR should I buy the engine + this Leadshine DM2282 Digital Stepper Driver 80-230 VAC with Max 8.2A http://eu.stepperonline.com/leadshine-dm2282-digital-stepper-driver-80230-vac-with-max-82a-p-79.html
    As I understand is a better solution, no power switching is rerequired, but it will cost me double 360 euro.
    I have to start from something and see after how I can advance forward. I think I will wait for you to test rail guides and maybe go for that design.:)

    PS. I use a suction cup in order to use toys, on a classic machine. Is it working very well, and is not affecting the toy at all. I use it for Bad Dragon ones, which have a big base. If you want to look at design I can upload photos.

    • shagmatic says:

      i think that any of the parts you have linked will work. i really doubt that you would need the more expensive stepper driver. i have used ones similar to the lower cost on in the motor driver kit. i have not done any careful tests (hope to do some of this this winter) comparing the chinese drivers to the Gecko but have a feeling that the Gecko is better. I would recommend getting a Gecko (they ship internationally at reasonable rates) as opposed to the more expensive driver. However i would start with the motor/driver kit from steppersonoline. If you allow enough depth in an enclosure, if you have one, then any nema 34 motor can be exchanged. this stuff is so cheap from steppersonline that it is not a big deal to change.

      if you want a lot of power you probably will not be happy with the friction drive as it will slip under heavy load. it is probably the cheapest of the decent drive systems if you can find the drive roller. i don’t think that a ball screw would be fast enough and would also be quite noisy. a timing belt is very fast cheap and quiet. i have never used a rack and pinion but that is another option although it is probably also noisy.

      steppersonline also has very inexpensive gear steppers but not in the large sizes. another possibility would be to gear a motor down a lot and drive a conventional flywheel type machine, even just retrofitting one. you would be limited to the max stroke of the flywheel but a similar degree of control could be had. if you wanted the linear motion to match the motion of the hand controller, the firmware would have to be modified to simulate this.

      i am almost ready to buy some of the cheap extrusion and vee bearings to see how this approach will work. i would use a heavy timing belt. i have a spare large servo motor so i might try making a seriously powerful machine, not that i need one. the motor is nema 34 so i can sub a smaller stepper to make a more responsive machine. i also made an adapter plate from nema 34 to nema 24 so i can try my little double stack nema 24 as well. this will be a winter project.

  13. Baz says:

    What about going to a linear motor? (think railgun) See linmot ps01-23×169. Possible to diy, but…. Not easy.. They also make a version which slides and rotates.. Omg..

    • shagmatic says:

      I am sure there are linmots that would be perfectly suited to a fucking machine but i would guess that they are very expensive. i could not find any pricing information online. i think you also need to use one of their proprietary drivers. my guess is that a suitable motor driver setup would be over $800, just guessing.

      • | says:

        There is some pricing online but not on their site.

        To give you a ballpark though, just two parts of the “drives” (slider and stator) alone start at around $2000 before you buy power supplies or a controller. You would be looking at around $4000 to $5000 once you add in hardware, mounting, etc. Just the controller hardware ranges from about $800 to $2000.

        They are well suited for this purpose though.

  14. multsync says:

    Instead of using a belt drive system to eliminate slip, why not just modify your original machine by replacing your friction wheel with a spur gear ( nylon to reduce inertia ) and add a rack to the top of your moving rod ( nylon or metal).

    • shagmatic says:

      a rack and pinion gear would work but not with a round shaft unless it were keyed to prevent rotation. it would probably be easier to use a square shaft. i have used square tubes in previous machines and used square hole guides to prevent rotation. those machines used belt drives but it would certainly be possible to use a rack and pinion instead. using flat pulleys for the idlers would probably be a good mating but they would need flanges to guide the square shaft. i am not aware of such pulleys so they would have to be custom made. the goal with the friction drive machine was to eliminate the need for custom machining but the best machines do require some.

      i will be posting pictures of my new machine very soon. i have a new (huge) motor arriving today and want to test with it before i say all sorts of wonderful things about the new machine. so far it is looking very promising but it is also very expensive to build. i think i have about $700 in parts in this new machine. it uses a cable drive instead of a belt. this makes it extremely strong not limited by the strength of the belt to trolley connection.

  15. Davey Hi says:

    Great project. I’m looking into building one but having a hard time finding firm data (pardon the pun). My original plan was to use steppers but my math was giving me RPMs that were much higher than what a stepper could do, around 3k rpm for 1 stroke/sec. Admittedly with a small gear on the shaft (just what I had on hand). Maybe my assumptions and/or math is off?

    How many strokes per minute does this do? What about the RPM of the servo? Thanks

  16. graham says:

    shagmatic , you are my hero.

    been wanting to build a descent machine for a long time,
    as most of them just go in and out at set length.
    this is a work of genius, and from your description and plans i made one myself.

    it is brilliant and i don’t see that anyone could need anything more.
    it does every combination of fucking known to man and then some.
    I just wanted to say thank you for the design and effort you put into this and for sharing it with everyone.
    i wish you all the best in your commercial success.
    i used a £10 stepper driver and equally cheap components, but im sure it is not as good as yours, i just didn’t want to spend the money.
    i look forward to adding the audio section and trying that out.
    i think you have a winning design that could make you rich.
    I know that I enjoy it very much.
    it was so easy to build except for the drive roller.
    thanks again.

  17. Darren says:

    Shagmatic,
    This is a great design, I have purchased the components you’ve recommended and I’m starting to build my own in a steel box. I plan on using only the 3 knob control box. What I’m not clear about is the shagmatic controller board. Since it wasn’t included on the parts list, I didn’t source this component(s). Some documentation says I can make your own but it also mentions that you sell the controller. Do you have this available now and how much would it be?

    Thanks for sharing your designs and ingenuity

    • shagmatic says:

      i do sell the complete board that allows you to just hook it up and has the convenience of RJ connectors built in. However you can build your own using a breakout board that is mentioned on one of my posts search for a couple of bargains and you can find that post where the board is mentioned. I am selling the complete boards for $250 which is a lot but it includes a lot of support and people who can not build it on their own usually need this level of support.

  18. Ken says:

    Hi,
    Great designs, thanks a lot for sharing 🙂
    I am a bit confused about which design is the latest/preferred. Is it the one with the timing belt? Is there a big difference in the complexity and/or price on the different designs?
    Looking at the videos, I would be more than happy with any of the designs, although I would prefer the one that makes least noise. I do not need LOT of thrusts/min, nor do I need any extreme torque. I would prefer the stepper solutions instead of the servo, which seems a lot more complex.
    The music sync is something I would like to use.

    Based on the above, which design would you recommend me to go for?

    About the joystick: Did you consider the use of a touchpad (like a mousepad on a laptop) instead of the joystick? That way you wouldn’t have to hold anything in your hand if using it alone.

    Thanks again,
    Ken

    • shagmatic says:

      the drive wheel version is the easiest to make with limited tools. the major disadvantag is that it can slip if not very carefully adjusted and will slip some even if adjusted perfectly. so it is not a good candidate for msic sync or any other application where drift would be a problem that could not be corrected easily by hand. the joystick can always be used for drift correction but it is best if it is not needed. so the timing belt version is probably the best overall. the cable drive is better and would last longer but requires custom made pulleys. i can not find anything ready made. noise comes from different sources. the wheel drive is very quiet especially if the motor is in a box. the timing belt and cable models can be quiet if plastic bearings are used. if linear ball bearings are used it is much noisier. the screw machine is the noisiest so far.

      i have made a variety of input devices but nothing has the sensitivity and control ability of the roller joystick. at least nothing i have tried so far. a touch pad is an interesting idea but i don’t think that a strictly linear response would be useful. i think you would have to add something like pressure sensing or use a very non linear scaling that allowed sensitivity and fast acceleration as well. i am not aware of (they probably exist)of any touch pads that can be configured this way for which there are open source libraries to use with the arduino. the programming would probably get pretty complicated. if you had to work with just position information. i don’t have any here to look at but i bought a bunch of optical mice of a particular generation that used a chip that provided quadrature output signals and could be used to replace the joystick. i was not thrilled with the response. once you try the joystick with the three “speed” switch, everything else i have tried so far palls by comparison. did just a little looking and found the following that might be perfect. it has Z axis and a library so minimal programming would be needed. i will be buying one to test with. thanks for the suggestion.
      https://www.adafruit.com/product/837 i cheked out the library and it looks like it will be easy to use.

      • Ken says:

        Thanks for the detailed answer. I’ll go for the belt drive version then 🙂 For now, there is some work for me to find places en Europe to buy everything, but luckily several of your listed vendors are represented in EU.
        The pictures of the belt drive version helps a lot, but it would be easier with a detailed plan, but I understand that it requires a big effort to document it all, and I’m pretty sure I can make it from the information I have now – without spamming you with questions that is 🙂

  19. Ragna Erebos says:

    Hi, there im completely interested on building your model, ive already read all the manual and build instructions.

    i Just have a question, about the Shagmatic controller board, how do i acquire it?, im guessing from you, could you please send me information about acquiring it.

    Funny thing, im going to build a sex machine before a CNC…. XD

  20. shagmatic says:

    this is a test of the comment system

  21. anon says:

    i wish i had the technical skill to make such a thing

  22. MikeH says:

    Thanks for posting all of this and providing the resources. I used everything you did as inspiration and a starting point for my own machine.

    For my machine I am primarily using Openbuilds components. I am using a 500mm piece of their C-beam, along with solid v-slot wheels, and a 500mm 20×20 extrusion for the ram. I have it driven by a belt and pulley that runs in the C-beam channel.

    The other big change I made, was replacing the teensie board with an ESP32. My eventual plan is to utilize the wifi or bluetooth capability of the ESP32 to allow for smartphone control of the machine.

    Thanks again. I would not have got as far as I have as quickly without building off the foundation you laid.

  23. voi9viper says:

    I’m trying to decide between a ClearPath Servo Belt Drive, or a linmot PS01-23-160. I posted in the forum also. I’m looking for some unique motion pattterns, primarily vibration while stroking. I’m not sure this is going to be possible due to the acceleration needed. I know I can do vibration with no or very low stroke speed and/or depth, but vibration and long stroke would be cool. Any thoughts on this? ClearPath servos can use step and direction pulses just like a servo, or quadrature signials. They seem to be ideal for sex machines.

    • shagmatic says:

      i can get vibration on top of long strokes using my current firmware and setting the three knob to a vibrate speed and then using the joystick to get the long stroke. the way the program loop reads the various encoders and does interrupts etc, it does not come out perfect. if the vibration were generated in firmware using a timer instead of using a bunch of conflicting interrupts i think you could get very smooth vibration on top of long strokes.

  24. micky says:

    dont think it would have enough power, you need a gear drive motor, would have to see it working to believe it,

    • shagmatic says:

      There are a few different designs but all of them have more than adequate power. The most powerful is the cable driven machine. A gear motor is not needed because the same mechanical advantage is achieved with functionally equivalent methods. Timing belts cables on pulleys and a drive wheel all do the same as a gear motor. Also, step motors have a lot of torque at low speeds.

  25. micky says:

    sounds interesting, but its like saying a Toyota 4 cylinder has as much power as a 429 cobra jet engine as long as you gear it the right way ???? you cant beat horse power, and thats what makes any machine, is good old, American made, horse power

    your joy stick ideas, and electronics are very cool, mix that technology with some of the American made machines that are out there now and wow, but then you have to think of the expense, thats if you intend on selling them, hell maybe just sell the joystick software/electronics

    • Spencer Chase says:

      you might want to read a wiki or other information source on basic mechanics. you do not have a clear understanding of power or other basic concepts. using step motors it gets a little more complicated because of their unusual power curves.

      power is the rate of doing work. motors develop a particular amount of power based on their design but it is not constant. the few things i said are that my cable machine has the most power and that is because it has the largest motor. i also said that all of my machines have adequate power but as i said it gets especially complicated with step motors for reasons that would take a lot of time to explain. every machine is a compromise between torque speed and cost. i have made all of my machines with reasonable compromises but given an unlimited amount of money they could certainly be better. i also designed them by trial and error not by careful engineering because i did not know \specifically what performance i needed until trying them. in actual use they perform very well.

      • micky says:

        I know enough to say the best performing machines on the market have gear motors, with a sliding mechanism that makes it go back and forth, and there are more than a few builders out there and they all build the machines close to the same way, its all about a powerful American made electric gear motor that’s what makes them hum, add a quality speed control with the quality motor and you have a machine that fucks, I know enough not to use a windshield wiper motor like many of the junk machines out there, I know enough to say its a lot easier to control the speed of a DC motor than a AC motor and the equipment for DC is less expensive, I can fabricate and MIG weld any type of frame work you can imagine to accommodate a gear motor, speed control, and sliding mechanism, I have built machines from start to finish and when completed are great fucking machines, you might be right these steper motors might be the way to go, I better read up on it on Wikipedia

        • spencer says:

          If you just want a machine that goes back and forth with only the ability to control the speed, a gear motor is the cheapest way to make a fucking machine. If you want a fine degree of control of complex motion, my design is what you want.

      • micky says:

        sorry I cant resist saying this, I have enough understanding of mechanics to know not to use a step motor to build a good machine, I know enough about mechanics to know the best motor to use is a gear drive motor,

        • shagmatic says:

          you are probably thinking of stepper motors of the last generation. if you want a simple in out machine with no subtlety of control it is still probably better to use a gear motor. however even for this simple control a modern hybrid stepper with a high quality control can do pretty much all that a gear motor can do and a whole lot more. as i think you said, a Chinese gear motor is iffy at best. a quality US made gear motor is going to be in the range of $300 to $450 a $100 stepper and $150 control will do pretty much the same. you do need a high current DC supply but you need an expensive DC controller for the DC motor as well if you want something with torque control. i have built fucking machines with pretty much every type of motor and control. got bored really quickly with the simple in out machines. if all you want is brute power, this may be what you want.

          • micky says:

            a $100 stepper and $150 control will do pretty much the same. you do need a high current DC supply
            where can you find these 3 things? where is the best place?

  26. micky says:

    wow not to many people replying, I have a ? more than a reply, I am trying to use unichannel iron like some of the machines I have seen on the net. I have the special nut with a spring on it to put in the channel iron and I can slide the machine up and down and tighten it in place for many positions, but the spring nut is unstable and pops out falls down etc…. any tricks for keeping that spring nut in the channel iron

    • shagmatic says:

      if you are using unistrut type channel you should be able to make a very secure connection to it. be sure you turn the nut so that the grooves in it are over the channel. you can also make your own piece to fit in the channel but the unistrut nuts are pretty heavy. maybe use two of them?

  27. Andrew says:

    Are you still selling ShagMatic boards and if so how do I get one.

    • shagmatic says:

      i only have one board left that i could sell to someone who really needed it. you can check the resource page (link on top menu bar) for information as to how to do without the board.

  28. andrew says:

    Well I really need it. I have pretty much the entire build list of parts and all Im missing is the board. Please. I am the someone who really needs it. Let me know what I have to do to purchase it from you. Thanks.

  29. lm42p says:

    Hello Shagmatic,

    I’m very happy to know that someone else is so concentrate in that subject as me! Your work is enormous I can’t imaging how many hours you spent for testing improving etc… I thought my work were perfect but when I see all what you have accomplished especially the electronics part I just think my project is very simple.
    I hope you can see what I’ve done
    Cheers!

  30. micky says:

    this is a site for builders right? the best motors to use for building fuck machines are gear drive motors, A 1/4 horse power gear drive motor is perfect its like the Chevy 350 of the fuck machine world, make sure its American made and pair it with a quality speed control and your set, the only problem with this is a motor like this will cost a easy 300.00 and the speed control another 150.00 I have found it hard to locate Chinese gear drive electric motors, I have a source but i would like to shop around a little, A Chinese motor rated the same as what i mentioned before cost 150.00 I feel like this is a pretty good buy, and he sells speed controls that are easy to install and work very well for around 150.00 if any one knows of any good suppliers for gear drive motors 1/4 hp and around 200 rpm let me know thanks

  31. shagmatic says:

    the simplest fucking machine you can make is a DC gear motor with a simpl evariable voltage speed control. a better speed control is a good addition but they are expensive. 90 volt control motors (or up to 120 volt) and a suitable torque controlling speed control makes a much better machine. the best motors made are Bodine but very expensive new. you can find then used and surplus but not in large quantities. this is one of the many reasons for making my stepper based machine. you do not need gears and you havle al the control flexibility of a gear motor plus a lot more.

  32. micky says:

    I have never seen a fucking machine with a step motor ? or seen any one ever use one ?

    how the hell does Hissmith fucking machine sell so good ? have you seen the motors they put on those things? they sell for around 400.00 how much do you think the motor and speed control are worth, and can you find the same thing here in the US or is it that big of a piece of crap,

  33. micky says:

    lets say you were going to use a windshield wiper type motor to build a machine, what would be the best one? plus speed control, and where would you find them?

    or whats the best step motor? and speed control?

  34. Spencer says:

    i would not use a windshield wiper motor for a variety of reasons. you can find suggestions for stepper controller and power supply on the resources page of this site. however you also need to control the motor which is what the shagmatic programs does using the teensy arduino.

  35. Rob says:

    Hi Spencer, great site. Just wondering whether you’ve experimented much with linear actuators as an alternative to the drive wheel version? If so, how does it compare?

    • shagmatic says:

      I haven’t tried stepper type linear actuators. they are quite expensive. I am sure they would work well. If you mean linear actuators that use ball screws, i have also not tire them but do not think they would work well at high speeds. I tried using a fast ball screw with both stepper and servo and never got it to work well. very expensive commercial units might work better.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *