New Mounting System for Shagmatic Fucking Machine

I went to my favorite metal supply where they seem to always have what i need for building my fucking machines. I got a 4 foot piece of 1/4″ aluminum plate that had been bent wrong for a job. It was not put in the brake straight so it was useless. Got it for $2 a pound and for $6 they cut it straight along the long end (which i could have done myself but was not thinking so …) This makes the perfect fucking machine mount.

The picture shows an adjustable bed mount that works really well (have not done an actual in the butt test yet) It can be adjusted to fit pretty much any mattress. The black thing is a rubber pad to protect the sheets from being cut by the metal.

Also shown is a new dildo i made with some UHMW plastic from the same source. They are a one stop fucking machine supply. There is also a guy working there who I would like to test the new dildo on 🙂

This entry was posted in Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink.

12 Responses to New Mounting System for Shagmatic Fucking Machine

  1. ActionPackedSF says:

    Is this still the Unstoppable unit but with the rubber belt instead of the steel cable? The carriage is different here too: wheels hugging central track rather than sticking out into an outside track. Unstoppable’s forceful nonslip performance requires the steel cable, yes? No? How about the carriage track system. Is the outside wheel design better than the one above for Unstoppable’s forceful nature?

    Thx!

  2. Spencer Chase says:

    this is the timing belt version that i made shortly before the cable drive unstoppable. it uses a double stack nema 24 stepper whereas the unstoppable uses a nema 34 which is much more powerful. this machine has the music following program. it uses vee rollers and an extruded rail. it is light weight compared to the unstoppable. the timing belts do not slip either but the motor is a lot less strong and could slip under heavy loading. the tee rails of the unstoppable are much stronger and longer lasting than the extruded rail and vee rollers.

  3. ActionPackedSF says:

    My gear motor flywheel machine uses a drawer slide. It’s airly quiet and very stable with both light and heavy toys (even of the largest Mr Hankey variety).

    I’m thinking I may follow your shagmatic controller + 1200 ounce inch NEMA 34 + steel cable tied to a drawer slide first and see how it goes.

    Im not going to be driving any more motors than the one on the machine. Which Torroidal transformer would you suggest in that case?

  4. Spencer Chase says:

    i did not think the drawer slides would last very long but it sounds like this is not the case. if i did use drawer slides, i would probably use two of them. i also thought they would be pretty noisy just by sliding them back and forth and listening. maybe i will try one on the next machine. they are certainly cheap enough. there is not problem with their being a little sloppy compared to the ground rods or vee rails. this is not rocket surgery.

    the transformer i used for the unstoppable is hugely oversized. i have also found that in spite of what Gecko says on their site, cheap switching supplies can work quite well. Gecko expresses concern about the regulating aspect of these supplies as a potential source of problems but i have one on my timing belt machine and it works just fine. I also have a cheap switcher on my CNC router that has three brush type servo motors and never had a power supply related problem. for a demo machine like my unstoppable i thought it made sense to really over build it. i have a very good adjustable voltage and current bench supply and ran the unstoppable with it and checked the actual current consumption and found it to be much less than i thought it would be based on the motor specs.

    so bottom line is, try a cheap switcher first. get the highest voltage that is compatible with the stepper driver, 60 volts is probably a good choice. the torroidal supply on my unstoppable is 65 volt at 20 amps and is probably more than twice what it needs to be. this would probably be fine?
    https://www.amazon.com/LM-High-precision-High-stability-Certification-Communications/dp/B06ZYDZCG9/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503380704&sr=8-2&keywords=switching+power+supply+60+volt

  5. ActionPackedSF says:

    Ah! You have read my mind (and quite possibly got a peak at the message I was drafting when I saw your reply come through). Building a supply from scratch takes me quite away from my own comfort zone. Your news that an off the shelf switching supply should work is a tremendous relief.

    Thanks!

  6. ActionPackedSF says:

    BTW, I’m using the 16″ extra heavy duty slide from orgasmalley.com. It’s augmented with a solid steel backbone that fills the sliding portion and has a threaded hole at the end to hold a threaded vacu-lock attachment.

    This design has held up without complaint for nearly a year of regular use.

    I do want a full foot of space to play in for this new machine. I’ll have to find a 24″ slide that will perform as well as the Orgasm Alley 16″ slide.

  7. Spencer Chase says:

    it is difficult to find high quality slides at reasonable prices. industrial quality are amazingly expensive. i did find some but was shocked at the prices. it is also difficult to find single extension slides in long lengths but you can get doubles in very long lengths and remove one slide. you could use 16mm unsupported rods and bushings and probably spend about the same as for a pair of good slides. using two slides might let you get away with much cheaper ones since they do not have to resist twisting. will be noisy, however. i have so much of the Rulon J that i could make the whole carriage out of it and just drill two long holes through it. a real waste of very expensive plastic but i have a ton of it.

  8. ActionPackedSF says:

    Since we’ve avoided talking about them altogether, mind sharing your thoughts on the ball screw?

  9. Spencer Chase says:

    i made one machine with a screw and nut. this is the machine that was previously on the header of all pages of shagmatic.com it was not a ballscrew. i think it has 5 leads and a very steep pitch. it worked OK but the machine was so enclosed it was not easy to service. i think it might be a little slow too. it has a square shaft to prevent rotation and the screw is inside the square tube. if i were to make another screw machine i would use a carriage and some sort of linear bearing and probably use a ballscrew. they are pretty cheap now but again, they are noisy. ballscrews are great if you need precision. the fucking machine does not need precision so a cable drive or timing belt are probably a better choice. the cable machine requires making special pulleys but the timing belt machine uses stock parts. my timing belt machine uses an XL belt which seems to be adequate but for a really heavy duty machine i would use a larger belt. joining the belt to the carriage is the difficult part. you can buy ready made parts to do this but they are expensive. i make my own and even printed some notched plates to hold the belt. it is not a good idea to crush the belt too much so i suggest using a matching plate or just clamp it between pieces of rubber. a relatively soft silicone would hold well without deforming the belt. the only reason to use a ballscrew would be to make a really compact unit like the shockspot. probably best to use a plastic nut and multi lead screw instead as it would be quieter.

  10. ActionPackedSF says:

    Thanks for sharing your time, knowledge, and experience. It is all quite helpful.

    I am even more certain now about starting with the drawer slide. Cost-wise, Orgasm alley.com gets $30 for the 16″ slide that’s been performing so well in my machine. It would appear that spending more isn’t necessary.

    Sound wise, the drawer slide’s faint sliding sound is accompanied by the rhythmic click at either end of the stroke and a light hum from a bodine 24v 10a, 1/4 hp gear motor churning away. When approaching full tilt, I make much more noise than the machine does.

    Thanks again.

  11. Spencer Chase says:

    interested in hearing how the drawer slide works. i suggest using an L timing belt at minimum. my machine uses an XL but that is because i have a bunch of XL pulleys already. for really heavy use the bigger belt is a good idea. good to hear that orgasm alley uses bodine motors. these are the best and made in the US.

    it does sound like you need the big nema 34 motor. it will be about equal to the biggest of the orgasm alley machines. you do have to remember that a rotary machine does not need to accelerate for stroke direction changes. it is running at a constant speed and direction. a stepper has to change direction for each stroke and this involves accelerating at the start of the stroke and decelerating at the end. my program has parameters for acceleration and max speed and together with a good stepper driver can do amazing things but it will not be exactly the same as a rotary machine. the flexibility more than makes up for this. one of my favorite modes of operation is to set the machine vibrating with the 3 knob controller and then move it manually with the joystick. could mount a vibrator on a rotary machine and get the same effect but not the ability to control with human input.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Follow Me